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Living Gentlemanly; Tails, You Win — part 3 of 4
Written by Joe DiPietro   

Robert MerrillWelcome back, fellow...um, fellows...to our continuing series on dressing to the tens. That's right, we're going beyond the nines and putting together that most regal of formal attire, white tie and tails. By now you've had a chance to get the basic elements, so without further dalliance, it's time to accessorize.

Socks

Black, no ribs or clocks (those little decorations on sides of men's socks are called "clocks." I dunno why). Sockbroker in Los Angeles (www.sockbroker.com) has lisle/silk blend plain black socks. Get several pair.

Garters and suspenders

Garters are a must!White is preferable. Black is fine. Colors and stripes are wrong, but nobody is going to see them unless you want them to, and if you want them to, you probably want to wear colors and stripes anyway. Remember, you're having fun here.

Tie

Once more, you can play a little—so long as it's white! (You know who wears a black tie—or a black vest—with a tailcoat? A butler. That's so you can tell he's not a guest. No kidding.) Silk is fine if you wear a silk vest; otherwise, go with linen or pique. Pique ties are a beast to knot, and they should be starched as stiffly as the shirt and vest. When the tie is damp from starching, pinch it in the middle with a clothespin. When you go to wear it, dampen it a little with a plant sprayer, and leave it alone until you're ready to wear it. It'll behave. Linen ties are more forgiving, so keep your eyes open for a vintage number.

Links and studs

A very, very important detail. First of all, you need a way of attaching that New and Lingwood collar to the shirt. The little plastic studs that come with the shirt are not up to the job. So it's time to do some ebay-ing. Look for "collar studs" or "collar buttons," and you'll find them, often in sets of three—one long one and two short ones. The long one goes in the front, the short one in the back. Occasionally, you'll see a correct set of full-dress studs. If you do, you've hit paydirt. This set will include matching cufflinks, shirt studs, and—especially—vest buttons. Vest buttons are essentially big shirt studs, about 3/8" in diameter, as compared to the typical shirt stud, which is about 1/4" in diameter. The self-covered buttons that come with a white pique vest should be removable. Pop 'em out, and put in the buttons from the set. When all of this matches, you not only look dashing—you look utterly faultless. It's OK to use the links and studs you may have for black tie. But live a little—get yourself another set that isn't black. White gold or platinum rims with smoked pearl is perfect, and not all that hard to find.

Handkerchief and boutonniere

Harold LloydIt isn't necessary to wear the latter, but the former is obligatory. If you go with a silk tie and vest, a silk handkerchief is OK. Starched linen is better. Fold it to your personal preference—just not straight across. Too boring for such an intrinsically unboring outfit. As for the boutonniere, get a fake silk carnation, either red or white. Don't pin it to the face of the lapel! Use the buttonhole. The virtue of the fake flower is that it won't ruin the buttonhole, and it will set on the lapel better. Again, you can have some fun with this. No flowers that squirt, though, unless you're Harold Lloyd.

We're almost ready to see the light of...night, so be sure to check back next month for the grand finale!



 

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