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As formal season approaches, we end this primer on the pinnacle of gentlemanly attire. By now you should have most of the accoutrements of gentility, and these last few details will finish the job admirably. Remember above all else that it's OK to "interpret" the classics, but you must first know what they are. So learn well what you read herein, then dash it all and be yourself. Watch and Chain Not necessary, but a nice touch with tails is to wear your watch chain from the further-forward suspender loop on the right side, and to slip the watch into your right side trouser pocket. (A worthy improvement is to get a tailor to put one of those coin pockets in there for your watch—the chain will hang better.) Outerwear This includes an overcoat, scarf, gloves, and stick. Double duty time again. What you have for black tie will work with tails, and vice versa. In the best of all possible worlds, the best overcoat is double breasted, with silk-faced lapels to match the coat’s. Forget about finding one these days. But does this mean you’re stuck with the funereal dullness of an ordinary black overcoat? Nope. Starting with just that, get yourself a cheap raccoon collar, and have a tailor sew it onto the coat. Countless furriers have these and they cost next to nothing. About 34” to 36” will fit most coats, but first measure around the collar of your coat from the bottom of one lapel around the collar to the other one. As for the scarf, plain white, no patterns, but satin stripes are fine. White nylon gloves from any formal wear shop will do. If you want a stick, go for plain black. No gold or ornate heads—just plain ivory. And if it’s a straight-headed stick, get a wrist strap for it. See www.houseofcanes.com, and get a black one. You won’t drop your stick this way, and your hand will be free. The Topper No fedoras, bowlers or Homburgs. Period. And not one of those godawful low-crowned felt monstrosities the formal wear places have. Get a collapsible silk top hat. Steam it to remove any wrinkles, and don’t collapse it! It’s an antique! Treat it with some respect, and it will do the same for you. Accessories A deco cigarette case, a good lighter, a fountain pen and some billet-doux notes. The pen and notes are essential if you want to break the ice with any unattached women who’ve been eyeing you...and there will be plenty, rest assured. That about wraps it up, fellas. Don’t think you can’t manage this kit with the proper élan. You can. And once you do, you will not only be the sharpest tack in the box, the slickest of the Big City Slickers, you’ll be assaying timeless good taste and taking the retro revolution to the streets. Be bold, brothers. This is your chance to shine!
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